
Types of Wool: all the Fine Qualities
Choosing what to wear today also depends on the type of fiber. Wool, for example, is a type of textile fiber with optimal performance, especially for outdoor clothing but not only, and with unique characteristics.
There are different types of wool that have specific peculiarities depending on the chosen fiber. The different types of wool offer many advantages and properties that make them ideal for footwear, clothing, and accessories. Knowing these characteristics and benefits leads to greater awareness and allows for more appropriate choices for your next purchase.
A more conscious choice during the purchasing process is a gift not only for the planet but also for your wallet: opting for quality garments and optimal fibers that withstand time, like those found in the different types of wool, allows for significant savings in the long run and continuous comfort.
Let’s explore what wool is and what types of wool exist, trying to understand which characteristics of each make them suitable for specific needs.
What is Wool?
Wool is a fabric made from the shorn hair of various animals. It is therefore a natural fiber with very ancient origins: used in the Middle East and North Africa, wool was used in the hottest locations by the Bedouin nomads of the Arabian Peninsula. Today, wool is the main fiber used to make outerwear and tents, thanks to its insulating ability: the outer layer of wool heats up but does not transfer that heat to the inner layers of the fabric, keeping the environment inside the tent cool.
Wool is a fiber with incredible performance derived from its very structure. Wool has a thin core around the hair, surrounded by an outer layer of overlapping microscopic keratin scales. Each wool fiber is thus an elastic and wavy tube that can bend over 200,000 times and maintain both high elasticity and internal tone.
Some main characteristics that all types of wool possess include:
- – Insulating ability: wool is an excellent insulator and, unlike any other type of fiber, wool maintains its insulating abilities even when wet. Wool is naturally water-resistant thanks to the keratin scales and natural oils present in the animal’s hair. Its ability to insulate while wet has made it an indispensable fiber for many outdoor activities because it can protect against hypothermia.
- – Moisture absorption ability: wool is excellent at absorbing moisture up to about a third of its weight, and the very structure of the fibers helps keep this water on the outer layer of the fabric. The interwoven fibers wick water away from the skin and deposit it outside the garment. This characteristic is also perfect for those who want a garment that stays dry for a long time.
- – Odor resistance and antimicrobial ability: wool is particularly appreciated for these characteristics. Although care must be taken when doing laundry, wool does not need to be washed too often because it does not retain odors and does not easily get dirty. Wool fibers hold all dirt on the surface and are often stain-resistant.
- – Fire resistance: wool is highly fire-resistant because it has a very high combustion temperature. Therefore, wool does not melt in a fire.
Types of Wool: What They are and Their Main Characteristics and Uses
The clothing industry recognizes ten types of wool:
- virgin wool;
- merino wool;
- shetland wool;
- cashmere wool;
- mohair wool;
- camel hair;
- alpaca wool;
- llama wool;
- vicuña;
- qiviut.
Besides these types of wool, there are also some fabrics that are not intended to be worn, such as carpets and other home accessories. Each type of wool is well identified on the garments derived from it because the wool industry is very meticulous about labeling and identifying the source of the fibers it uses. The fibers obtained from different animals, as we will see later, allow for the creation of different types of fabric depending on the use cases.
Virgin Wool
Virgin wool, also known as lamb’s wool, is the most available soft type of wool. It is obtained from the first shearing of a sheep, usually when the animal is seven months old, as this is the softest hair a sheep will produce in its lifetime. Sometimes virgin wool refers to types of fibers that have not undergone any processing procedures. It is still a very fine wool with hypoallergenic properties, and its fibers are so fine they are almost slippery to the touch and extremely elastic.
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Merino Wool
Merino wool comes exclusively from merino sheep. This breed, originating from Spain, is 80% found in Australia and is a warm-climate sheep breed, whose hair fibers are naturally fine and light compared to other types of wool.
Merino sheep also produce a higher percentage of lanolin compared to other sheep, which means their wool must go through an elaborate process to remove much of the naturally contained oil. For this reason, merino wool is more expensive than other types of wool, but the durability of merino wool garments and their high performance make the price more than adequate. Merino wool can be used year-round and has antibacterial properties that combat odors.
Cashmere Wool
One of the most remarkable types of wool is undoubtedly cashmere. This soft and delicate wool comes from the cashmere goat, whose fibers are obtained from the goat’s neck. Much like merino wool, cashmere is particularly fine, making the fabric ideal for clothing, hats, and cardigans, and many people prefer this type of raw material for their garments.
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Shetland Wool
Shetland wool is a type of thick and lustrous wool, a top choice for knitwear and outerwear. It is quite an unusual type of wool because the sheep’s fleece is not always uniform. A single Shetland sheep can produce fine wool on the neck and thicker wool on the flanks: this is because Shetland sheep are a primitive breed from Scotland, originating from the Shetland Islands. The outer hairs of Shetland sheep are long and coarse, ideal for rugs and more durable fabrics, while the inner ones are great for scarves, socks, and other garments that require softness.
Alpaca Wool
Alpaca llamas are camelids native to South America but have now become popular animals worldwide. Alpacas produce a type of wool that is among the best in the world. Although very soft, alpaca wool fibers have a rougher and itchier appearance. Alpaca wool has many qualities and is aesthetically very distinctive, with unique shades. It is a very rare and precious wool that is often hand-processed and includes all the main characteristics of sheep wool, making it enveloping and versatile.
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Camel Wool
This is a durable fiber ideal for making coats. Camel hair, although it may not seem so, is hollow and finer than sheep’s wool. Its fiber is therefore light and almost as soft as cashmere. Camel wool is often obtained from camels living in cold regions such as Mongolia, northern China, and Russia.
Vicuña Wool
Vicuñas are the wild relatives of alpacas: they are very rare animals that the Peruvian government protects, limiting the frequency with which they can be captured to collect their hair. The shearing of vicuñas dates back to the Inca Empire, and the fiber at the time was reserved for use by royalty. Today, a product entirely made of vicuña wool can be very expensive, as this species is very rare.
Llama Wool
Related to alpacas, llamas produce a very coarse wool that cannot always be worn directly on the skin but retains all other characteristics and advantages. The ideal use for llama wool is in rugs and blankets.
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Mohair or Angora Wool
Mohair is a goat wool from the Angora goat. Angoras are a breed with thick hair, giving the wool a good softness and protection. The Angora fiber is particularly smooth to the touch and absorbs color well, making it particularly versatile. Not to be confused with angora wool from rabbits, Angora goat wool is thicker than cashmere and, while very similar to regular sheep wool, has fibers with not too pronounced scales, making it a wool that does not tangle or shrink.
Qiviut Wool
Qiviut is a wool that comes from the undercoat of the Arctic musk ox raised in Canada and Alaska. The ox is closely related to goats, and its wool is very difficult to obtain because the ox cannot be shorn: the wool is collected in spring when the animal sheds its undercoat. It is a very fine, soft, and strong hair, eight times warmer than any type of wool, and does not shrink in water, making it a very popular wool for coats and winter garments.